Orchid Not Blooming

Orchid Not Blooming

What can be the reasons? 
Orchids have life cycles like all living organisms. After a period of flowering usually follows another of certain vegetative rest. However, the one that returns to bloom after a while will depend on some factors that we must know. 

Let’s see the possible causes that the orchid does not flower: 

1st) The conditions of light
If it receives little light, the plant will not develop new flowers. 
Especially in spring is when the plant should receive more light and for longer as the days lengthen. This is a key element for floral stimulation and, therefore, we must ensure that the plant is in a place that without direct sunlight, receives good natural lighting. It is also in spring when the conditions of temperature change that act as a stimulant of flowering occur, as we shall see later.


There are orchids like the Phalaenopsis that can bloom more than once a year if they have the ideal conditions. However, the most common in most of the most common species that we have at home (phalaenopsis, oncidiums, dendrobiums, etc.), do it once a year, beginning the process of producing the floral rods coinciding with the change of season ( end of winter in early spring). 

In the case of phalaenopsis we will need to stimulate flowering around a minimum of 10,000 – 12,000 lux.If we have this light, the orchid will also notice the lengthening of hours of sunlight during the spring which is an essential element for its proper flowering.

2nd) Nutrients. 
Like all living beings, orchids need nutrients to develop . If the plant does not receive sufficient fertilizer when the active period begins (after the dormant period, usually at the end of winter, the beginning of spring), the plant will not develop floral buds or these will not develop sufficiently. Use only special fertilizers for orchids and follow the instructions of the product. 
We also recommend the use (at the beginning of the vegetative period) of bioactivators of flowering . These are products that usually contain a complex of amino acids and vitamins (B1, B2, B12, B6, K3, etc.) and are applied in the form of vaporization on the leaves and stems, never on the flowers if they are already present.

3) The temperature change. 
It is one of the critical elements in flowering and that people usually do not know about. The orchids need to start the flowering cycle a temperature change between day and night of about 10 º C. The ideal temperatures in most species would be about 10-12 º C. at night minimum and about 20 to 25º C. Maximum for the day. This temperature difference is one of the main factors for the stimulation of flowering. They should be avoided, but, temperatures lower than 10 ºC. and above 
30º C. The orchids, originating mostly from climates and tropical environments, will not tolerate temperatures below or above the levels indicated, so we must take appropriate measures. 

4) Diseases.
Finally, if the orchid does not flower, it may also be due to suffering from some disease. Examine your plant and try to find symptoms of the presence of fungi, insects or others. 
Visit our page: Diseases for more information.

Suggested solutions to stimulate flowering:

1º – Locate your orchid in a place with lots of light but without direct sunlight. In any case, consult the specific needs of each species. 
2nd – Use after the dormant period (usually in late winter, early spring) specific fertilizers for orchids (both for irrigation water and in foliar spray). We also recommend using flowering bioactivators that you will find in your garden center. 
3º – Make sure that in the place where your orchid is located, after the resting period, it presents sufficient temperature differences (around 10º C.) between day and night without reaching the minimum temperatures below 10º C.
4th – Make sure that your plant does not present any disease or attack of fungi, insects, mites or others. In this case, take the appropriate measures.

Differentiate a new floral stem from a new root:

Sometimes it is difficult to differentiate when the plant (especially in the case of Phalaenopsis) is producing a new root or a floral stick. Both at the beginning appear at the base of the stem in the form of a protuberance that progressively grows. Normally, they can be differentiated in that if it is a root it usually takes a uniform green color in its tip (growth zone) and gray in the rest (when they are dry or before watering) being its smooth texture. If they are roots they will tend to tilt downwards, although many of them, if they manage to find a support (see next photo) can use it as a guide and grow upwards.
For its part, the floral rods always have a consistent color that varies from light green to dark brown (depending on the color of the flower), its growth is vertical (always upwards) and we will observe that its texture is not smooth as in the root but will produce small bumps regularly (like knots). Some of these knots then generate the different branches.

Don Burke

I am Don Burke, one of the authors at My Garden Guide.  I am a horticulturist that cultivates, grows, and cares for plants, ranging from shrubs and fruits to flowers. I do it in my own garden and in my nursery. I show you how to take care of your garden and how to perform garden landscaping in an easy way, step by step.I am originally from Sydney and I wrote in local magazines. Later on, I have decided, more than two decades ago, to create my own blog. My area of specialization is related to orchid care, succulent care, and the study of the substrate and the soil. Therefore, you will see many articles dedicated to these disciplines. I also provide advice about how to improve the landscape design of your garden.

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