fact sheet<\/p>\n
flower colour<\/p>\n
violet
\nred
\npink
\nwhitely
\nmulticolored<\/p>\n
Flowering time (month)<\/p>\n
January to April
\nSeptember to December<\/p>\n
flower form<\/p>\n
leaf colour<\/p>\n
leaf shape<\/p>\n
Ornamental or utility value<\/p>\n
flower decoration
\nleaf decoration<\/p>\n
Utilization<\/p>\n
interior greening
\nplanters
\nwinter garden<\/p>\n
winter hardiness<\/p>\n
growth characteristics<\/p>\n
light<\/p>\n
sunny to semi-shady<\/p>\n
soil type<\/p>\n
soil moisture<\/p>\n
fresh to moderately moist<\/p>\n
pH value<\/p>\n
lime tolerance<\/p>\n
nutritional requirements<\/p>\n
moderately nutritious to nutritious<\/p>\n
humus<\/p>\n
garden style<\/p>\n
Origin
\nThe indoor cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) belongs to the 22 species of the genus cyclamen. Contrary to what the name suggests, the indoor alpine violet does not belong to the violet family but to the primula family (Primulaceae). The term cyclamen is also misleading, as the popular indoor plant comes from the mountainous regions of Southeastern Europe, Algeria and Tunisia. We like to keep indoor cyclamen as indoor plants, which brighten the dark season with their colourful flower decoration.<\/p>\n
Our tip: Alpine violets are also suitable as cut flowers and remain fresh in the vase for two to three weeks. The stems are turned out with a jerk and, immediately before they are placed in the water, cut diagonally with a sharp knife. They are best shown off in glass or silver vases in which the butterfly-like flowers appear even more graceful. The water should be changed two to three times a week and the stems freshly cut.<\/p>\n
growth
\nLeaves, flowers and roots of the perennial plant spring from a tuber. Classic varieties grow to around 30 centimeters in height. As delicate as the winter flowering violets may seem, indoor Alpine violets have stamina: flowering can last up to eight months, and some plants reach an age of 20 years – provided they are well cared for and in the right location.<\/p>\n
leaves
\nThe leaves are heart-shaped and dark green with a silvery pattern.<\/p>\n
blossoms
\nThe striking smooth-edged or fringed flowers sit on long stems. Their colour spectrum ranges from white to pink to red. Two-colour varieties are also available. The flowering season of cyclamen begins in September and usually lasts until April. Do not cut away withered flowers with a knife or scissors, but twist them off at the base of the stem.<\/p>\n
Location
\nRoom Alpine violets prefer a bright place without direct sunlight. The plants feel most at home at 15 to 18 degrees Celsius and then bloom abundantly. The cooler they stand, the longer the flowers last, which continually slide between the heart-shaped foliage. If the room temperature is higher, room alpine violets wither faster and sometimes discard their leaves. Avoid places directly above the heating. If the plants let their heads hang, this indicates that the location is too warm.<\/p>\n
The summer is best spent by indoor Alpine violets in a semi-shade place in the garden. From May until the first night frosts, indoor Alpine violets can stand outside.<\/p>\n
substrate
\nYou can use commercially available potting soil for the persistent winter flowering plants. If you notice that you are watering too much or that the substrate remains too wet, you can also use cactus soil that is particularly permeable or mix the potting soil with clay granulate or sand.<\/p>\n
casting
\nPour the indoor Alpine violets indirectly, i.e. over the coaster or the planter. Excess water must be removed. The root ball should always be slightly moist during the flowering phase, but never too wet for a long time. cyclamen do not tolerate waterlogging! To ensure that the indoor Alpine violets flower again next year, watering should be reduced during the summer months. If they lose their foliage, watering is stopped completely until the new foliage emerges in early autumn.<\/p>\n
Fertilizer and soil in the our store shop<\/p>\n
fertilizing
\nDuring the flowering and growth phase, the Zimmer Alpine violets are fertilized weekly in low concentration via the watering water. Then let them rest for six to eight weeks. In the period from repotting to flowering, the nutrients are added every two to three weeks.<\/p>\n
repotting
\nEvery two years in September, replant your indoor Alpine violets in fresh soil and make sure that the tuber does not sit deeper than before. She should be about a third out of the earth.<\/p>\n
varieties
\nIn the trade there are countless and always new breedings of the popular winter bloomers. However, these are rarely listed under a variety name. However, they can be classified into different groups depending on the flower:
\nwith large, whole-edged flowers
\nwith large, fringed flowers
\nwavy flowers with fringed edges (so-called rococo varieties)
\nFlowers with feathery crest (Cristata varieties)
\nFlowers with red eye and coloured border (Victoria varieties)
\nwith small, fragrant flowers (Wellensiek varieties)
\nParticularly attractive are varieties with dark eyes, differently coloured petal margins or a fringed ball gown. Another group has only recently appeared on the market: Miniature or dwarf Alpine violets as faithful miniature editions of the decorative ornamental plant.<\/p>\n
Alpine violet in the our store-Shop<\/p>\n
Propagation
\nAlpine violets can be propagated by sowing. The seeds germinate in the dark after about four to six weeks at a soil temperature of 16 to 20 degrees Celsius. The seeds do not last long, so they should always be spread fresh. Caution: All parts of the plant are poisonous, especially the juice from the tuber. Use gloves!<\/p>\n
On room Alpine violets one millimetre thrips can appear, which lead to light, later brown coloured flower spots. Also weakly corked areas on the underside of the leaf indicate a thrips infestation. Rotting flower stems and brown leaf spots covered by a grey lawn are signs of the grey mould (Botrytis). Always dispose of affected leaves at an early stage. In the cyclamen wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) the leaves wilt and necroses are visible on the root tuber. Occasionally spider mites appear which suck on the underside of the leaf. If the soil is too damp, fungus mosquitoes often nest in the ball of the pot. Even in the case of diseases or pests, do not cut off infested leaves and flowers! Twist them out and remove them with a final powerful jerk.<\/p>\n
Whether fruit, vegetable and ornamental plants in the garden or indoor plants in the house: spider mites can infest and damage many different plants. Here Ren\u00e9 Wadas, a herbalist, will tell you his tips on how you can effectively fight the arachnids.Credits: Production: Folkert Siemens; Camera: Fabian Primsch; Editing: Dennis Fuhro, Photos: Flora Press\/FLPA, GWI<\/p>\n
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