Nowadays there are many different possibilities for the pool perimeter. One, for example, does not go out of fashion at all: the pool border made of tiles.
A private pool in the garden is pure luxury. While others have to go to the outdoor pool or to the lake, you can simply step out of the house and jump directly into the cool water. But even just sitting by the pool and let the day end can be pure relaxation. For this to work perfectly, however, the ambience must also be right. Beside a beautiful planting around the pool and relax furniture, of course, the matching pool border should not be missing. After all, what good is a pool if it looks like a construction site around it? Of holiday feeling is then certainly no trace at all. Everything just has to fit.
Which pool surround is particularly popular?
As far as the pool perimeter is concerned, you are really spoilt for choice here. Because in the course of the years some trends have developed in the area of pool borders. Very popular are e.g. pool borders made of wood. The only problem is that wood needs a lot of care and also weathers over time. That is why many people prefer a pool border made of WPC, i.e. a composite material made of wood and plastic. It is easier to clean than wood, has a long shelf life and is also predominantly splinter-free.
But also tiles as a pool surround simply do not go out of fashion. This is mainly due to the fact that tiles in a wide variety of designs and shapes are available for purchase and can be used to conjure up the most beautiful pool surrounds. Whether Mediterranean, futuristic or colourful – almost any garden style can be realised with tiles.
What needs to be considered before laying the tiles?
Tiles offer a number of advantages outdoors. They have a low height, are easy to clean and have a flat surface. However, tiles used as pool surrounds must meet some special requirements. Because when you buy tiles for the pool surround, it’s not just about the design – the technical characteristics of a tile are also decisive when you buy it. Here’s what you should watch out for:
When buying tiles for the pool surround, it is essential that you take the wear of the tiles, which is determined in wear classes, into account. The five abrasion classes describe the durability of a glazed tile. You should know that abrasion group 1 stands for very light loads and abrasion group 5 for heavy loads and a high abrasive effect. Tiles that do not have the processing class (hardness, abrasion resistance) of at least 3, or even better 4, are therefore ruled out for the pool edging.
❍ Water absorption capacity:
Stoneware tiles are divided into five groups according to their water absorption capacity. For the pool border, it is best to use tiles from group Ia or Ib. These are frost-resistant as they absorb a maximum of 0.5 or 3 percent water.
❍ slip resistance:
Tiles can become very smooth when wet. In the worst case, this can even lead to accidents. Therefore, you should only lay tiles around the pool that are non-slip. In this area, too, the tiles are divided into five classes. It is best to use tiles of class R11 (slip-resistant at an inclination of 19° – 27°), R12 (slip-resistant at an inclination of 27° – 35°) or R13 (slip-resistant at an inclination of more than 35°). The only problem: the more slip-resistant the tiles, the harder it is to clean them. But what’s the saying so nicely: Safety first!
Bonding tiles around the pool – step by step instructions
Step 1 – Prepare the substrate:
Once you’ve bought the tiles, you’re ready to go. But before you lay the tiles, you must first prepare the substrate properly. The ground around the pool must have a gradient of two percent to allow water to drain from the pool and rainwater.
If the floor around the pool is uneven, do not follow the steps below. In this case we recommend that you lay the tiles on stilts. According to franke-raumwert.de, the unevenness can be compensated by adjusting the pedestal bearings and height differences between 28 mm and 965 mm can be bridged.
Step 2 – Apply waterproofing slurry:
Now you must apply a layer of waterproofing slurry to the floor using a lambskin roller. According to bauredakteur.de, the layer should be about two centimeters thick. Leave to dry for about 20 hours. But please note: The waterproofing slurry must not dry too quickly, otherwise the surface will crack. Therefore always moisten the surface a little.
Step 3 – Lay the tiles:
Once the waterproofing has dried, you can finally lay the tiles. First of all, you must mix flexible fluidised bed mortar or tile adhesive according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Then pour it over the surface of the first row of tiles and apply with a toothed trowel. Then spread some tile adhesive or mortar on the back of the tile. Then lay the first row of tiles. Then comes the next row, and so on. The tiled surface must then dry for approx. 24 hours.
Step 4 – Grouting:
Once everything is dry, mix the flexible joint mortar according to the manufacturer’s instructions, pour onto the tiles and insert into the tile joints with a rubber wiper. Then let everything dry for about 15 minutes. Now wash off the tiles with a sponge board. Ready! Now everything just has to dry well and you can enter the area around the pool.
I am Don Burke, one of the authors at My Garden Guide. I am a horticulturist that cultivates, grows, and cares for plants, ranging from shrubs and fruits to flowers. I do it in my own garden and in my nursery. I show you how to take care of your garden and how to perform garden landscaping in an easy way, step by step.I am originally from Sydney and I wrote in local magazines. Later on, I have decided, more than two decades ago, to create my own blog. My area of specialization is related to orchid care, succulent care, and the study of the substrate and the soil. Therefore, you will see many articles dedicated to these disciplines. I also provide advice about how to improve the landscape design of your garden.