Dendrobium Nobile


Dendrobium Nobile

The Dendrobium nobile orchid, as we can see by its name, belongs to the genus “Dendrobium” . You can learn the general characteristics of this genre here: Dendrobium . 
They are orchids that are for sale in some garden centers, they are relatively easy to care for and offer a good flowering . But as with most orchids, they are a bit misunderstood by inexperienced gardeners. 
Some are frightened when they lose their leaves, they do not understand that the Dendrobium orchids of soft cane need a period of rest, during which they lose all their leaves.
Other gardeners do not get their Dendrobium nobile orchid to flower again, because they also do not take into account that they need temperature changes between day and night, to stimulate flowering. 

Dendrobium

It is necessary to know well the care you need to take advantage of all its ornamental potential. Despite what is thought, orchids need a period of rest in which they lose their leaves. This does not mean that the plant has died or that it is sick. It is only part of its phenology.

The orchid Dendrobium nobile is a type of white cane epiphyte . Some of them have the hardest cane and others softest. Those that have the hard cane are different from the others in that the leaves do not lose them in the time of rest. On the contrary, they offer floral wands that appear in the upper part of the stem. On the other hand, those of soft cane if they lose the leaves and flower from the stem.

It is normal that during flowering bloom in groups of 2 to 3 large flowers. They are usually somewhat more perfumed. The good thing is that they cover the stem completely so that you almost can not see it. This gives a more attractive value when decorating.


In this article, I hope to solve all the doubts that may arise about the Dendrobium nobile.

Table Of Contents

  • 1 What type of orchid is the Dendrobium nobile?
  • 2 Care of the Dendrobium nobile orchid
    • 2.1 Lighting
    • 2.2 Temperatures
    • 2.3 Irrigation and humidity
    • 2.4 Nutrients and Fertilizers
    • 2.5 Substrate and change of pot
  • 3 Buy orchid Dendrobium nobile.

What type of orchid is the Dendrobium nobile?

Let’s start at the beginning. The Dendrobium nobile is an epiphytic orchid with soft cane. 
The Dendrobium can be divided into those with hard cane or soft cane. Those of hard cane do not lose their leaves during the resting season and offer floral rods that appear in the upper part of the stem, while the soft-leaved Dendrobium lose their leaves and flower from the stem. 
The Dendrobium nobile belongs to the last group, those that lose their leaves during the resting season, and then flower from the stem. 
It is common to flower in small groups of 2 to 3 large flowers may be perfumed, which completely cover the stem, so that almost not seen, only flowers are seen. It is spectacular.

Care of the Dendrobium nobile orchid

As we mentioned before, it is not a difficult plant to take care of but it is necessary to take into account various aspects so that it can be developed as best as possible. They are tropical plants that grow in quite concrete environments, so we have to try to match the same conditions so that they feel at home.

The Dendrobium nobile belongs to the group of orchids that grow in a more temperate and fresh environment. In the garden they can be perfectly if the climate maintains normal temperatures between 10 and 30 degrees . While you are in this temperature environment, it will be perfectly conditioned. Some claim that it is able to withstand some lower temperatures but less frequently.

They need good lighting throughout the year. Therefore, the ideal thing is to place them in sunlight. If we want the flowers to grow well and very colorful, it is important that the sun feeds them for as long as possible. This we can do in the coldest time. When spring and summer come and the temperatures are higher we should avoid direct sunlight or damage to flowers. At these times of the year it is better to keep the plant in semi-shade.

During the resting period it is ideal to find a place inside the house where you can receive enough lighting but without direct sunlight. The best thing is to put it close to the advantages. To know if you are receiving the correct light you need, we will have to observe your leaves. If they are dark green, they are getting less light than they need. The indicator that you are going through with the light and can even get to damage it is that it has yellowish leaves.

Despite what may seem, they are not difficult to take care of at home, but they are not the typical indoor plant that you only have to water from time to time and that’s it. 
Orchids are tropical plants, which grow and flourish in very specific environments and if the conditions do not reproduce at home, we will have quite disappointing plants.

illumination

The Dendrobium nobile belongs to the group of orchids of temperate and fresh environment , so they can be in the garden during some months of the year, if the temperatures accompany. 
In general, the temperatures they support are between 10ºC and 30ºC. Some claim that it can withstand lower temperatures, especially in a time of total rest, with dry pseudobulbs. 
They are plants that need good lighting throughout the year , to have healthy plants, grow well and most importantly, give us a good flowering. 
During the spring and summer they can be in a terrace or garden, but in the shade, without direct sun.
During the rest period, we should look for a place (at home) where they receive as many hours of light as possible. 
We can know if the orchid is receiving the correct light, observing its leaves. 
If they are dark green, they receive little light, while the light green leaves indicate that the light is correct. A few yellowish green leaves, it is a clear sign of too much illumination.

Temperatures

The limit temperatures are between 10ºC and 30ºC, although it is possible that they can withstand lower temperatures, it is better not to risk. 
During the autumn and winter months, night temperatures should move around 10ºC-15ºC, and daytime temperatures above 20ºC (do not forget that you have to receive a lot of light). This temperature difference of about 8ºC is essential, so that the orchid nobile develops flower buds.

From January-February, when flowering begins, night temperatures should be above 17ºC. 
If we do not follow these temperature recommendations, the nobile orchid will skip a bloom, and in return will provide many keikis (small rooted cuttings).

As we said before, you need an optimal temperature between 10 and 30 degrees. In this temperature range is the most comfortable. Although it is able to withstand lower temperatures, it is better not to risk that they may suffer and not flourish well.

In the months of autumn and winter, the temperature should move in ranges between 10 and 15 degrees at night and 20 degrees per day. This temperature is great so that the plant can survive without problems. In addition, to this we must add that, needing a large amount of light, will be protected from the cold with the sun’s rays. So that you can develop flower buds, the difference between day and night temperatures should be 8 degrees. It is the optimal range for good growth.

As the months of February and March arrive, the flowering season begins and the night temperatures must be around 17 degrees. If these temperatures do not occur as we are mentioning it, the Dendrobium nobile will not have its flowering stage. Instead of the pretty flowers that we are looking for, they will give us large quantities of keikis. These keikis are small, rooted cuttings. Obviously, it’s not what we expected.

Watering and humidity

Light, temperature and irrigation go hand in hand in the Demdrobium nobile orchids. 

Waterings in winter help to maintain a good state of moisture that is sufficient for the plant not to wither completely. In his resting time, he will lose all the leaves and rest completely . Even so, you will need enough water to survive and spring to bloom again.

Irrigation should always be done in the morning with warm water and rain. It is also worth filtered water. In case of not having this water, we can use bottled water that has few mineral salts. It is advisable to keep the humidity between 40 and 80%. The more temperature there is, the more environmental humidity the plant needs.

For the fertilization, it is enough to fertilize once every 15 days in the middle of summer until the autumn. The rest of the year does not need anything.

As for watering, during the warmer summer and spring, orchids need more water. In this time we will increase the irrigation frequency. The substrate has to be partially dry to be able to water again. Normally this happens once a week. Therefore, there is no need to worry too much about watering. On the other hand, in autumn and winter, we will have to reduce irrigation. The normal thing is to water it once every three weeks .

In the hottest months, spring-summer, and the plants are in full development, the risks have to be abundant, but always that the substrate so advises: it must be partially dry. As a generic rule, we can talk about once a week. 
In the fall we will begin to moderate the waterings, to leave them once every 3 weeks or so , when the orchid has lost its leaves and is at rest. 
The risks of winter are intended to prevent the orchid from withering completely. You can or should water, when we notice that the pseudobulb wrinkles a little. 
Always water in the morning, with warm water and rain or filtered.In case of not having, we can replace it with bottled water, with few mineral salts. 
The humidity has to be maintained in ranges between 40% and 80%. You know, the higher temperatures the greater the need for environmental humidity.

Irrigation must be abundant when the plant grows: the substrate must not be completely dried between the waterings (but it does not have to be saturated either)

When the year’s canes reach their final height, a small terminal leaf appears at its tip and growth stops. Irrigations should then, widely spaced and stop with fertilizer (see the initiation section to flowering below). Irrigation and soft fertilizer will not be resumed until flower buds have formed along the cane. 

Over-watering is the easiest way to cause early death to an orchid. 

Nutrients And Fertilizers

During the growing season, more or less from mid-summer to autumn, it must be fertilized once a week or every fifteen days, with a high phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
When the irrigations begin to space, because the orchid will go to rest, we must stop fertilizing. 
Later, when the flower buds begin to appear and the plant begins to reactivate, start fertilizing with a fertilizer with a higher concentration of nitrogen.

The Dendrobium nobile are quite greedy in fertilizer during the growth period. 

Use fertilizer for green plants at half the doses recommended by the manufacturer with each irrigation during the period of active growth (development of leaves, roots or flowers). Stop the fertilizer when the new canes reach maturity.

Soil, Repotting, And Transplanting

Substrate and change of pot The substrate for Demdrobium orchids will be typical for epiphytes: light, spongy and resistant. The best, use those that are already prepared in gardening based on pine bark. 
It is important to remember that they do not hold a puddled substrate, so we must remove the substrate when it has already deteriorated and does not fulfill its function well. 
It is recommended to perform a transplant every two or three years. Dendrobium orchids prefer rather small pots. 
When we do the transplant, we will look for a pot slightly larger than the previous one, but not too big.

We can take advantage of the moment to extract cuttings, if the orchid has generated keikis. We will also cut out all the roots that we see that are damaged, and we will proceed to spray the cuts with coal dust or cinnamon powder to heal. 
The tools have to be disinfected , and we will proceed with clean hands or using gloves. 
It will proceed to perform the transplant, when the plant has already finished its flowering, in spring, when the orchid can generate new roots.

KEIKIS IN A DENDROBIUM NOBILE

Flowering of the Dendrobium Nobile

Flowering begins with a period of rest at the end of the growth period. If this period of growth is not strictly observed, the flowering will not take place and the plant develops young plants (called keikis) along the cane instead of the flower buds. 

Watch, then, to respect the period of rest that comes after the new rods of the year have finished their growth. It is known that this moment has arrived, when a small single right leaf appears at the top of the cane. Once this terminal leaf has left, it is necessary to rinse the substrate well with clear and warm water and then stop with the fertilizer and space the irrigations (the substrate must dry well between the irrigations, they are watered only if the new canes begin to wrinkle exaggeratedly).

Put the plant in full sun (progressively not to burn the leaves) and put on cool nights (the ideal ones would be between 7 and 10º between day and night, such as 10ºC during the night and 20ºC during the day). The best strategy is to put the plant outside in the shelter of the rain in autumn to benefit from the cool nights and full sun) 

Then, to recap, once the canes of the year have reached maturity, stop with the Irrigation and fertilizer and put the plant in full sun with a difference of 10 degrees between the temperature of the day and night. 

At the end of a few weeks, the flower buds will appear arranged along the reeds. When the buttons have been well formed, the plant can be moved to the interior with a lot of sun and progressively retake the risks.

Plants that do not receive enough light may renounce flowering despite a good development of leaves and roots. 

If the rest period is not respected, the keikis (small plants) will appear on the reeds instead of the flowers.

If the rest period is not respected, the keikis (small plants) will appear on the reeds instead of the flowers.

It is an orchid that can be difficult to make it flower indoors. You have to provide intense light and cool nighttime temperatures in the fall. As a general rule, do not buy this type of dendrobium if you do not have the possibility to take it out during part of the year. 

The plant should always have a light breeze throughout the year. 

Growth Period

Spring = Appearance of new canes and roots. 

Summer = Growth and maturation of canes. 

Fall = Dry rest in full sun with 10 degrees difference between day and night. 

Winter = Flowering. 

Buy orchid Dendrobium nobile

Tired of looking for a Dendrobium nobile? Here you can buy your orchid and receive it comfortably at home.

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Profile

Growth height
from 30.00cm to 45.00cm
Growth characteristics
  • upright
  • Kindel
Flower colour
  • purple
  • pink
  • white
Flowering time (month)
  • February to June
Flower characteristics
  • slightly fragrant
Leaf shape
  • lancet-shaped
  • oval
Soil Moisture
  • fresh to moderately moist
Lime tolerance
  • sensitive to lime
Nutrient requirements
  • moderately nutritious
Decorative or utility value
  • Flower decoration
Use
  • Interior greening
  • Planters
  • Winter garden
  • Warm House

Origin

Dendrobium nobile, usually simply Dendrobium orchid, occasionally also called grape orchid, is a species of orchid from the genus Dendrobium within the family of orchids (Orchidaceae). Dendrobium species grow epiphytically, i.e. in their areas of origin they sit in branch forks in trees or on tree trunks. They originate from the Himalayas, Western Asia and Taiwan and need a resting period to grow and flower.

Growth

Dendrobium nobile is a so-called sympodial orchid. This means that it forms so-called pseudobulbs, thickened shoot axes that store nutrients and water. Dendrobium grows to a height of about 30 to 45 centimetres and forms numerous aerial roots

Leaves

The oval leaves are alternate, somewhat leathery, lanceolate and medium green

Flowers

The upper leaf axils of the leafless pseudobulbs are the source of the flower panicles with their numerous flowers during the flowering period between spring and autumn Like other orchids, the flowers of Dendrobium have three outer sepals, two inner petals and a third leaf which is transformed into a lip. The flowers appear along the entire shoot, usually two to three flowers sit close together, short stemmed

When you buy a Dendrobium orchid, the plant often bears 20 to 50 wonderfully sweet-smelling flowers. After a record flowering, the plant will have 8 to 15 flowers until after a few years it has formed new bulbs. The flowering time varies, it lasts three to six weeks, and is usually in spring

Location

The orchid species requires a bright location, but should be protected from direct sunlight. Especially during dormancy Dendrobium should be placed very brightly. As far as temperature and location are concerned, this means exactly: Dendrobium nobile should be kept warm during the growth phase and needs cooler temperatures for several weeks to induce flowers. Therefore, they can actually be described as warm to change. During the growth phase, from spring to autumn, when new bulbs are ripening, temperatures can reach 20 to 25 degrees Celsius during the day with high humidity, and at night a temperature of 15 degrees Celsius is very favourable. From mid-May to mid-October, Dendrobium orchids are best moved outside to a covered balcony or under a parasol, where the plants are protected from rain and direct sun. During the dormant season from autumn to spring, temperatures must be lowered to 15 to 17 degrees Celsius; at night, even ten degrees Celsius are sufficient

Substrate

For all Dendrobium species you should use bark substrate. Make sure that you have a sufficient drainage layer! Like other sympodial orchids, Dendrobium should be planted in the pot with the oldest shoots pointing towards the edge, so that the new shoots have room to grow

Watering

During the growing season it is recommended to spray the orchid species daily, especially at high outdoor temperatures. It is also important to water the orchid daily with softened water until the bulbs ripen, but in the meantime let the substrate dry out again and again. During the resting period and after the bulbs have matured, you should stop watering for six to eight weeks – only then will new flower shoots appear

Fertilization

Every two to three weeks you can sparingly fertilize Dendrobium orchids. Important: Restrict fertilizing during the resting phase!

Repotting

Repot Dendrobium nobile as rarely as possible. The plants usually feel comfortable in very narrow containers. If they are in danger of tipping over on the windowsill, you can use polystyrene or wooden plates to support them so that the pots are horizontal. Sometimes it can be helpful for stability to put a pebble in the bottom of the pot. Make sure, however, that it does not clog the trigger holes.

Do not repot until the substrate is algae or the orchid has been in the same pot for more than four years. The best period for repotting is from spring to autumn, when new bulbs appear, but not during dormancy

Cutting

A cutback is usually not necessary.

There are a number of Dendrobium-Nobile hybrids that are derived from the natural form and are named after their breeder, Jiro Yamamoto Yamamoto Hybrids, who comes from Japan. There are stately large forms as well as mini-forms, which do not get higher than 50 centimetres

Propagation

They can multiply Dendrobium by Kindel. Kindels are formed from the shoot eyes on pseudobulbs or directly on the inflorescence stem. You should let the childel grow on the flower stem for about a year and then carefully twist it off the plant when the roots are about five centimetres long.

It can take up to a year from the time of cutting off and replanting until the child’s first flowering. Splitting the rhizome – a popular method of propagation for other sympodial orchids – should rather not be used as a propagation method for Dendrobium.

Diseases and pests

Too much moisture can lead to fungal attack. As with other orchids, spider mites, mealybugs and mealybugs can occur if the air is too dry. If there is no flowering, this is a sign that the temperature reduction has not been observed

Don Burke

I am Don Burke, one of the authors at My Garden Guide.  I am a horticulturist that cultivates, grows, and cares for plants, ranging from shrubs and fruits to flowers. I do it in my own garden and in my nursery. I show you how to take care of your garden and how to perform garden landscaping in an easy way, step by step.I am originally from Sydney and I wrote in local magazines. Later on, I have decided, more than two decades ago, to create my own blog. My area of specialization is related to orchid care, succulent care, and the study of the substrate and the soil. Therefore, you will see many articles dedicated to these disciplines. I also provide advice about how to improve the landscape design of your garden.

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