Flowering time (month)
Ornamental or utility value
semi-shady to shady
weakly alkaline to weakly acidic
Origin and appearance
Every spring the Anemone nemorosa (anemone anemone) delights the eye of the forest walker with dense white flower carpets. Especially in deciduous and coniferous forests one often finds the early bloomer native to Europe and Asia. Like early flowering bulb and tuber plants, this anemone species is a geophyte – in other words, it sprouts quickly in spring, but has already completed its growth cycle in early summer and retreats back into the soil. With this clever strategy, the perennial perennial makes optimum use of the period when the treetops still allow plenty of light to pass through. The name anemone probably comes from the fact that the petals are very easily carried away by the wind.
The buttercup plant (Ranunculaceae) usually flowers pure white in nature, but occasionally also shows slightly pink petals. The flowering season extends from March to May, but in mild regions the anemone also opens its flowers in February. The bright white flower stars with the yellow stamens are 1.5 to 4 centimeters in size. They consist of six to eight, very rarely twelve petals. At night and in the rain the flowers close and hang downwards. The wood anemone grows 10 and 25 centimeters high and forms creeping, slender rhizome roots from which new shoots sprout. The dark green leaves of the anemone are deeply incised and move in after flowering. The perennial is poisonous in all parts of the plant.
Everyone knows it as a native wild flower, but only a few know that there are many very interesting garden forms of the wood anemone. One of the most striking is undoubtedly ‘Blue Eyes’: it is densely filled and has an almost ink blue centre. Vestal’ also bears white, double flowers. In contrast to ‘Blue Eyes’, however, the petals formed from the stamens are much shorter, as is the case with some peony varieties, so that a small pompom is formed in the middle. Robinsoniana’, finally, is a large-flowered lilac-blue colour variation. It was discovered 130 years ago in the Oxford Botanical Gardens and was widespread in England’s gardens as early as 1900. The right location is important, because the flowers show the most intensive colouring in the shade. Strong UV light decomposes the dye and causes it to fade.
Location and soil
As forest plants, wood anemones need loose, humus-rich garden soil. They feel most comfortable on calcareous soils, but also tolerate slightly acidic soil. It is important to have even soil moisture and a light-shaded location under larger shrubs, for example under a free-growing hedge or a free-standing house tree.
Since the anemone can quickly form dense stands, it is ideal if you want to plant a larger area under woody plants. It is best to combine it here with late flowering shade shrubs such as Funkien or Astilben, because if the spring bloomer moves in after flowering, they can hide the yellowed leaves. Very decorative are also combination plantings with other early flowering bulb flowers and patchwork carpets of wood anemones, winterling and blue stars.
Planting and care
The wood anemone is a very undemanding plant. It is best to place the perennials in the soil in spring during or immediately after flowering and mulch every year in autumn with leaves to promote the formation of humus. A thin layer of compost is applied shortly before the spring shoots. Avoid any tillage because it will destroy the sensitive rhizomes. Since the robust plants shoot short runners, the flower spectacle increases from year to year. If the carpets become too big over the years, you simply cut off the edges and keep the plants in check.
Since the anemone is immediately absorbed after flowering, it does not need to be cut back. The above-ground parts of the plant die completely in summer. They are then covered by the other plants and decomposed into valuable humus. But you can always cut a bouquet for the vase in spring.
The reproduction of the wood anemone is very easy and succeeds most simply by dividing the spread-joyful plants. To do this, simply cut off parts of the plant carpet and put them back in again at another place. The best time for this is in spring immediately after flowering. They can also multiply the early bloomer in autumn by root cuttings. Some of the rhizomes are dug out and cut into several parts, making sure that there are buds on each cuttings that are capable of sprouting. These sections are then not inserted, but planted horizontally according to their natural growth behaviour. But the best thing is to leave the plant to itself – with its long rhizomes it multiplies by itself over time.
Diseases and pests
The anemone anemone is often found on the diet of snails and the rhizomes are often attacked by the anemone cupling. This fungus uses the early bloomer as a host plant, but does not damage it severely. The leaves are also somewhat susceptible to rust fungi.
Spring bloomers in the our store Shop
I am Don Burke, one of the authors at My Garden Guide. I am a horticulturist that cultivates, grows, and cares for plants, ranging from shrubs and fruits to flowers. I do it in my own garden and in my nursery. I show you how to take care of your garden and how to perform garden landscaping in an easy way, step by step.I am originally from Sydney and I wrote in local magazines. Later on, I have decided, more than two decades ago, to create my own blog. My area of specialization is related to orchid care, succulent care, and the study of the substrate and the soil. Therefore, you will see many articles dedicated to these disciplines. I also provide advice about how to improve the landscape design of your garden.